Episode 2

I am ashamed to begin with saying that Touraine is the garden of France;that remark has long ago lost its bloom.The town of Tours,however,has some thing sweet and bright,which suggests that it is surrounded by a land of fruits.It is a very agreeable little city;few towns of its size are more ripe,more complete,or,I should suppose,in better humor with themselves and less disposed to envy the responsibilities of bigger places.It is truly the capital of its smiling province;a region of easy abundance,of good living,of genial,comfortable,optimistic,rather indolent opinions.Balzac says in one of his tales that the real Tourangeau will not make an effort,or displace himself even,to go in search of a pleasure;and it is not difficult to understand the sources of this amiable cynicism.He must have a vague conviction that he can only lose by almost any change.Fortune has been kind to him:he lives in a temperate,reasonable,sociable climate,on the banks,of a river which,it is true,sometimes floods the country around it,but of which the ravages appear to be so easily repaired that its aggressions may perhaps be regarded (in a region where so many good things are certain)merely as an occasion for healthy suspense.He is surrounded by fine old traditions,religious,social,architectural,culinary;and he may have the satisfaction of feeling that he is French to the core.No part of his admirable country is more characteristically national.Normandy is Normandy,Burgundy is Burgundy,Provence is Provence;but Touraine is essentially France.It is the land of Rabelais,of Descartes,of Balzac,of good books and good company,as well as good dinners and good houses.George Sand has somewhere a charming passage about the mildness,the convenient quality,of the physical conditions of central France,"son climat souple et chaud,ses pluies abondantes et courtes."In the autumn of 1882the rains perhaps were less short than abundant;but when the days were fine it was impossible that anything in the way of weather could be more charming.The vineyards and orchards looked rich in the fresh,gay light;cultivation was everywhere,but everywhere it seemed to be easy.

There was no visible poverty;thrift and success presented themselves as matters of good taste.The white caps of the women glittered in the sunshire,and their wellmade sabots clicked cheerfully on the hard,clean roads.Touraine is a land of old chateaux,a gallery of architectural specimens and of large hereditary properties.The peasantry have less of the luxury of ownership than in most other parts of France;though they have enough of it to give them quite their share of that shrewdly conservative look which,in the little,chaffering,place of the markettown,the stranger observes so often in the wrinkled brown masks that surmount the agricultural blouse.This is,moreover,the heart of the old French monarchy;and as that monarchy was splendid and picturesque,a reflection of the splendor still glitters in the current of the Loire.Some of the most striking events of French history have occurred on the banks of that river,and the soil it waters bloomed for a while with the flowering of the Renaissance.The Loire gives a great "style"to a landscape of which the features are not,as the phrase is,prominent,and carries the eye to distances even more poetic than the green horizons of Touraine.It is a very fitful stream,and is sometimes observed to run thin and expose all the crudities of its channel,a great defect certainly in a river which is so much depended upon to give an air to the places it waters.But I speak of it as I saw it last;full,tranquil,powerful,bending in large slow curves,and sending back half the light of the sky.Nothing can be finer than the view of its course which you get from the battlements and terraces of Amboise.As I looked down on it from that elevation one lovely Sunday morning,through a mild glitter of autumn sunshine,it seemed the very model of a generous,beneficent stream.The most charming part of Tours is naturally the shaded quay that overlooks it,and looks across too at the friendly faubourg of Saint Symphorien and at the terraced heights which rise above this.Indeed,throughout Touraine,it is half the charm of the Loire that you can travel beside it.The great dike which protects it,or,protects the country from it,from Blois to Angers,is an admirable road;and on the other side,as well,the highway constantly keeps it company.A wide river,as you follow a wide road,is excellent company;it heightens and shortens the way.